The Ginkgo Biloba Bonsai: The Living Fossil

The Ginkgo Biloba is a unique tree, the last survivor of a botanical family that went extinct millions of years ago. For the bonsai, growing a Ginkgo means having a piece of prehistory on your hands. It is unmistakable for its fan-shaped leaves that turn a spectacular golden yellow in autumn before falling off all together in a few days. It is an extremely long-lived plant, resistant to pollution and disease, but it requires patience because of its slow growth and poor ability to close wounds.

Origin & species

Native to China, it is considered a sacred tree in the East. It is a dioecious plant, meaning there are separate male and female trees. A peculiarity of very old specimens is the formation of "Chi-chi" (or "Icho-chichi"), stalactite-like aerial roots that descend from the branches downward: if your bonsai should produce them, never cut them off! They are a sign of great age and value.

Exposure and Microclimate

Ginkgo loves full sun.
Direct light is essential to reduce leaf size and make the fall color more intense.
However, young plants or those in very small pots may suffer from the peak sun in July and August, which risks burning the edge of tender leaves. In midsummer, light afternoon shade is welcome.

Watering

Ginkgo roots are fleshy and water-rich.
Water generously when the soil dries out, but be very careful of waterlogging. If the soil stays soggy for too long, the roots will rot quickly. In winter, keep the soil barely moist, as the fleshy roots can burst if they freeze while soaked in water.

Water quality

It is not a fussy plant. Tap water is fine. It is a very hardy species that tolerates even less than perfect water, but it appreciates rainwater to keep the substrate clean of salts.

Substrate

Drainage is the first priority to safeguard the fleshy roots.

• Recommended mix: 60% Akadama (for structure), 30% Pumice and 10% Universal Potting Soil.
• Akadama is especially recommended because it allows immediate visual moisture control and promotes fine roots.

Repotting

This is done in spring (April), as soon as the buds begin to swell and turn green.
Young ones repot every year or two, old ones every 3-5 years.
Caution: The roots are fragile. Gently untangle and never prune the root system too drastically; Ginkgo struggles to recover from excessive reductions.

Fertilization

Fertilize generously in spring to support new growth.
Use slow-release solid organic fertilizer. In the fall, continue fertilizing until the leaves fall-this is when the tree builds up energy for the following year's buds.

Flowering and fruiting

Occurs only on mature specimens (over 20-30 years old). Females produce apricot-like fruits (actually fleshy seeds) that, when ripe and fallen to the ground, give off an unpleasant smell of butyric acid (similar to rancid butter). For this reason, male specimens are often preferred in bonsai or the fruits are removed before they ripen.

Structure pruning

Large cuts should be made in winter when the plant is bare.
Sore note: Ginkgo does not heal well. The wood tends to shrink and does not create the "callus" of closure like maples. Avoid huge cuts if possible, and always cover wounds with plenty of mastic to protect the inner wood.

Maintenance pruning

Ginkgo produces two types of branches: macroblasts (long branches that extend) and brachyblasts (very short bundled branches that bear leaves and fruit).
During the season, shorten the long branches that extend out of the outline, leaving 2-3 nodes, to encourage the emergence of the inner brachyblasts.

Pruning

In spring, when the new shoots are elongating and have produced 5-6 leaves, toot them, leaving only 2 leaves. The last leaf left behind should point outward, as it will determine the direction of the new branch.

Binding & folding

Ginkgo bark is soft and spongy: it is very easily marked.
If you use wire, wrap it gently (perhaps protecting the branch with raffia or paper) and check it often. Branches tend to return to their original position, so tying should be repeated several times over time.

Diseases and pests

It is incredibly hardy. It is hardly attacked by fungi or insects.
However, under conditions of stress or poor ventilation, it can suffer attacks by:

• Red spider mite: If the summer is hot and dry.
• Cottonwood Cochineal: Sometimes lurks at the base of the leaves.

Winter & protections

Resists cold weather well.
The weak point is the fleshy roots in pots: if they freeze and burst, the plant dies. In areas with harsh winters, protect the pot with mulch or put it in a cold greenhouse, but let the plant feel the cold to go dormant.

Annual calendar

• January-February: Winter pruning, root protection.
• March: Repotting (crucial time).
• April-May: Reviving, fertilizing, stapling.
• June-July: Regular watering, full sun.
• August: Summer rest, afternoon shade if it's very hot.
• September-October: Fall show (gold), fertilize.
• November-December: Leaf fall, cleaning.

Useful products for this bonsai

• Akadama Hard Quality (Best substrate for drainage)
• Hanagokoro Organic Fertilizer (Basic nourishment)
• Healing Mastic (Indispensable for Ginkgo)
• Coppered aluminum wire (Gentle on bark)
• Pumice (To aerate the soil)
• Bonsai pot (Preferably glazed or deep)

Frequently Asked Questions about Ginkgo Biloba

Why is it said to stink?
Only the ripe fruit of female specimens stink when they fall to the ground and rot. The bonsai, the tree itself, and the leaves have no unpleasant smell. If you have a male, you will never have a problem.

Why do the leaves turn black in summer?
It is not a disease, but almost always excess water or stagnation. The roots are suffocating. Reduce watering and check drainage. If, on the other hand, they are dry and crispy on the edges, blame too much dry wind or hot sun.

How do I get smaller leaves?
Ginkgo leaves do not shrink as easily as those of maple trees. The key is to grow it in full sun, not overdo the nitrogen, and increase fine branching (brachyblasts) over the years.