The Yew Bonsai: The Tree of Eternity

The Yew(Taxus) is one of the most prized and prestigious conifers in the bonsai world. Often called "the tree of death" because of the toxicity of its parts, for bonsai growers it is the tree of eternal life: it is extremely long-lived, survives extreme conditions and has a unique ability among conifers to regrow from old wood. It is famous for the spectacular color contrast between the dark red living vein, deep green foliage and the shiny white dry wood (Jin and Shari) that is preserved for decades.

Origin & species: Baccata vs Cuspidata

Although cultivation techniques are similar, two main protagonists can be distinguished in bonsai:
Taxus Baccata (European Yew): Native to Europe and North Africa. It has very dark green needles, arranged comb-like (flat) on the branches. It is very vigorous and perfectly adapted to our climate.
Taxus Cuspidata (Japanese Yew): Native to Japan (called Ichii). It has slightly stiffer needles, arranged radially around the branch and brighter green or yellowish at the tips. It is the most valuable variety for bonsai because it tends to be more compact and its dry wood is considered superior in hardness and color.

Exposure and Microclimate

The Yew is a sciaphilous (shade-loving) plant in the wild, but as a bonsai it needs light.
Half Shade or Sun: Ideally, a sunny exposure is best in spring and fall, and shady in the middle hours of summer.
The *Taxus Cuspidata* in particular fears the scorching afternoon sun, which can burn the needles (which turn brown). A bright but cool exposure ensures needles of a beautiful deep green color.

Watering

The Yew tree loves moisture but hates stagnation.
Its roots are fleshy and rot easily if the soil does not breathe. Water when the soil is slightly dry on the surface. It really likes misting on the foliage (especially in the evening in summer), which helps keep the needles hydrated and clean.

Water quality

It is a tolerant plant. Tap water is fine, but if it is very limey you may notice white deposits on the dark needles in the long run. Rainwater is always the best choice to avoid salt buildup in the soil.

Substrate

Drainage is the first priority. Use a very granular substrate.

• Recommended mix: 40 percent Akadama, 40 percent Kiryuzuna (or Pumice) and 20 percent quality Universal Potting Soil.
• Kiryu is a Japanese substrate specifically for conifers that maintains structure for years, which is essential for plants that repot infrequently such as Yews.

Repotting

This is done in spring (March-April) or early fall (September).
Badgers repot every 3-5 years. The roots are thick and fine: untangle them carefully. Unlike pines, Yew trees tolerate root reduction better, but never overdo it on old specimens. Always leave some old soil to protect microflora.

Fertilization

This is a tree that "eats" a lot to produce new vegetation and swell wood.
Fertilize generously with solid organic fertilizer ("meatballs") in spring and especially in autumn. Good fall fertilization is the secret to strong buds in spring.

Flowering and fruiting

It is a dioecious plant (male and female specimens).
Females produce the famous red arils: these are fleshy false fruits that wrap around the seed. They are very decorative in autumn (they look like red lanterns on dark green), but remember that the inner seed is poisonous.

Structure pruning

Large cuts are made in winter.
Yew wood is hard but elastic. Branches that do not serve the design often are not cut away, but debarked and made into Jin (dry branches) to give the plant character. Use gouges and pliers to work the dead wood.

Maintenance pruning

The Yew tree has a rare gift for a conifer: it regrows from old wood.
If you prune a long branch, new buds are very likely to be born back near the trunk. This allows you to rebuild the canopy and compact the tree much more easily than a Pine. Shorten long branches in the fall.

Pruning

During late spring and summer, new light green shoots elongate.
Pinch them off with your fingers or cut them off with scissors, leaving only a small piece of new growth. This keeps the stakes dense and flat.

Binding & folding

Yew wood is incredibly flexible. Extreme bending can be done without breaking the branch (but always proceed with caution and raffia).
Wire is applied in the fall/winter. Caution: check it often in spring because the bark is alive and the wire can etch, leaving ugly marks.

Diseases and pests

• Oziorrinchus: Enemy number one. Larvae eat the roots; adults eat the edge of needles ("bites" in a crescent shape). If you see these signs, treat the soil with specific products or nematodes.
• Cochineal: It hides among the dense needles.

Winter & protections

It is very cold-hardy (especially the *Cuspidata* that comes from cold climates).
However, potted roots fear prolonged frost. Protect the pot with mulch or TNT if temperatures drop far below freezing. Never keep it indoors.

Annual calendar

• January-February: Jin and Shari processing, liquid jin brushing.
• March-April: Repotting, beginning fertilization.
• May-June: Stapling shoots, pest control.
• July-August: Half-shade, regular watering.
• September-October: Heavy fertilizing, return pruning.
• November-December: Winter protection, tying back.

Useful products for this bonsai

• Kiryuzuna (Japanese top substrate for Yew)
• Jin liquid (Essential for bleaching dry branches)
• Gouge Set (For carving out dead wood)
• Biogold fertilizer (Slow release nourishment)
• Coppered aluminum wire (For elastic bending)
• Oblique clippers (For precision work)

Frequently Asked Questions about Yew

Is it true that it is poisonous?
Yes, very toxic. Needles, bark and seeds contain taxin. The only part that is not poisonous is the red pulp of the aril, but the seed inside is. Wash your hands after working with it and keep it away from animals that might gnaw on it.

How do I distinguish the Baccata Yew from the Cuspidata?
The *Baccata* has needles arranged in two opposite rows (like a comb) and is dark green in color. The *Cuspidata* has needles arranged irregularly in a radial pattern around the branch, are more pointed (cusped) and often a more yellowish/brilliant green.

Can I cut off all the green branches?
Unlike pines, the Badger is generous: if you cut off a branch, leaving only old wood, it is very likely to sprout new buds from bare wood, provided the tree is healthy and well fertilized.