The Cycas Bonsai: A Living Fossil in Your Vase

Cycas Revoluta (or "Sago Palm," although it is not a true palm) is a plant that takes us back to the dinosaur era. In Japan it is popular as a bonsai tree (called Sotetsu) because of its exotic appearance, sculptural trunk that looks like pineapple, and foliage of dark green pinnate leaves. It is not a tree in the traditional sense: it does not branch like a maple or pine. Its beauty lies in its rosette of leaves and wrinkled trunk. It is the perfect plant for those who want a sturdy, sculptural bonsai tree that grows with zen-like calm.

Origin & species

Native to southern Japan (Ryukyu Islands) and China, Cycas is a primitive Gymnosperm. It is a dioecious and very slow-growing plant. Its resilience is legendary: it is a true botanical survivor, able to recover even after periods of neglect, as long as it does not rot.

Exposure and Microclimate

Cycas loves light and warmth.
Ideal location: Full sun. The more sun it gets, the shorter, stiffer, and more compact the leaves will be (the bonsaiist's goal).
If you keep it in shade, the leaves will stretch out of proportion ("spin") and become weak and unsightly. In summer it loves high temperatures and is not afraid of scorching heat, as long as there is ventilation.

Watering

The golden rule is: better dry than soggy.
The trunk of the Cycas acts as a water reservoir. Water generously only when the soil has been completely dry for days. In winter, if kept in the cold, watering should be almost suspended (just lightly moisten once a month). Excess water quickly leads to root and collar rot.

Water quality

It is not fussy. Tap water is fine. However, if the water is very calcareous, you may notice over time a difficulty in absorbing trace elements such as Manganese or Iron, which are essential for keeping the leaves dark green.

Substrate

Drainage must be extreme. Do not use pure peat soils.

• Recommended mix: 60% Volcanic Lapillus (good for texture and microelements), 30% Pumice and 10% Universal Potting Soil or Humus.
• The use of lapilli is especially good for Cycas because, in addition to draining, it releases useful minerals and its reddish color creates a nice contrast with the dark trunk.

Repotting

Given its fleshy roots and slow growth, repot every 3-5 years.
When: Late spring or early summer (May-June), when it is warm.
Do not cut roots too much. Remove only the rotten or dry ones and shorten the longer ones slightly to fit in the pot. Use gloves: the roots are delicate but the plant can be thorny at the base of the leaves.

Fertilization

This is a plant that eats little but wants quality. Use a slow-release solid organic fertilizer from spring to fall.
Important: Cycas often suffers from Manganese and Iron deficiency (leaves turning yellow in spots). Supplement once a year with specific microelements or "Greening".

Flowering and fruiting

In pots this is a very rare and spectacular event that occurs only on very old plants. The male reproductive structure looks like a large elongated pine cone, the female one a feathery sphere in the center of the rosette. Enjoy the structure of the plant; the flowers are a bonus that perhaps your grandchildren will see.

Canopy Management (Pruning)

Cycas does not prune like a tree (no branches to shorten).
Cleaning: Cut off old, yellow leaves at the base that are at the bottom of the rosette.
Trimming leaves: If you want short bonsai leaves, you apply the total defoliation technique in late spring (May/June). All leaves are cut away. The plant, stimulated by the summer sun, will produce a new crown of leaves that will be shorter and more compact than the previous ones.

Binding & bending

The trunk does not bend (it is stiff). Wire is rarely used.
Sometimes wire is used to lower the new leaves slightly while they are opening and are still soft, to give a more graceful "mushroom" shape, but be careful: the leaves mark very easily. Use coarse, soft wire.

Diseases and pests

Public enemy number one is the Cochineal (particularly the white shield bug). It attaches itself under the leaves by sucking the sap. Since the leaves are hard, you can remove it mechanically with a brush and treat with white oil or specific products. Also watch out for root rot (too much water).

Winter & protections

Cycas can stay outside in southern Italy. In the North, it can withstand -2°/-3°C for short periods if the soil is dry, but it is best to shelter it in a cold greenhouse or cover it well with TNT. If it freezes hard, it loses its leaves (they become dry), but often the trunk survives and reblooms in summer.

Annual calendar

• January-February: Absolute rest, almost zero water.
• March-April: Revival, remove leaves damaged by winter.
• May-June: Repotting, total defoliation (for experts), fertilization.
• July-August: Full sun, water as needed (let dry).
• September: Fall fertilization.
• October-December: Preparation for winter, cochineal preventive treatment.

Useful products for this bonsai

• Volcanic Lapillus (Ideal for aesthetics and drainage Cycas)
• Iron Chelate (Against yellowing of the leaves)
• White Oil (Specific for mealybug)
• Strong Scissors (For cutting off hard petioles)
• Coppered aluminum wire (Coarse thickness for setting)
• Enameled Bonsai pot (Great contrast to dark green)

Frequently Asked Questions about Cycas

Why did the leaves turn yellow in dots?
If they are yellow dots that then come together, 90% is a spider mite attack or manganese deficiency. If, on the other hand, the yellowing starts at the tips, it is often excess water or iron deficiency. Check well under the leaves for pests.

My Cycas is not making new leaves this year, why?
Cycas is slow. Sometimes it skips a year ("round") and does not produce new leaves, especially if it has been repotted recently, has had little sun or little fertilizer. Bear with it; as long as the trunk is hard, the plant is fine.

Is it poisonous to dogs?
Yes, very toxic. All parts of the plant, especially the red seeds, are poisonous if ingested by dogs or cats. Keep it out of their reach.